Manchu Costumes in the Late Qing Dynasty The Meaning and Craftsmanship of the "Cuojin"

  •  Renhui Tang    
  •  Ruipu Liu    


The aim of this study is to focus on the "Cuojin" in Manchu costumes in the Qing Dynasty, ("Cuojin" means the form of dislocation butt joint at the collar of the big lapel. "Shunjin"means the form of neat form butt joint at the collar of the big lapel.) Through the research of specimens and literature, it was found that in the late Qing Dynasty, the "Cuojin" form generally appeared in the large placket casual clothes.The "Cuojin"is produced with the appearance of the big front edge decoration. The collar edge embroidered pieces need to be broken the seam in the front and stitched with embroidered pieces on the large placket. The "Shunjin" with "neat matching" appeared first, and then "Cuojin" gradualy formed.The conclusion of this paper is summarized in the literature collected at present. With the excavation and international exchange of more literature specimens, there will be more discoveries and new conclusions. Although "Cuojin" has no written rules and regulations, the use of it has a strict definition with its clothing level, that is, only for women use as casual wear. Although the "Cuojin" looks complex on the surface, in fact, it is easy to turn complexity into simplicity. The motivation is based on solving the problems of insufficient sewing and difficult craftsmanship, and guiding people from the aesthetics of "neat confrontation" to "winding path leading to a secluded spot".

This spirit of full of "make the best of an error" wisdom of "knowledge is acquired through experience" new-confucianism overturned the late Qing Dynasty clothing pretensions revealing the mainstream views of luxury.

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